Ozmobile Odyssey

We’ve now skirted the Great Australian Bight, 1,800 Km from Esperance to Port Lincoln via the Eyre and Flinders Highways, with the wild Southern Ocean (and whale migration route) now passed. Now we’re moving into the less arid coastal areas of South Australia and yesterday experienced the first rain, plus thunder and lightning, in 4 months travel. Since 30 July the trusty Ozmobile has comfortably carried us 20,000 Km, responding in kind to regular servicing and two new front tyres last week.

Rock formation in wheat country near Port Lincoln - named by colonial yarn. A visiting agriculture expert travelling by coach was expounding the virtues of harrowing land for crop growth. When he saw these rocks in the distance, he announced to the driver and passengers that the farmer (Mr Murphy) must have harrowed the land to produce such impressive haystacks.

Must be 5 o’clock somewhere - Don’s about to crack open a stubby.  Streaky Bay (Eyre Peninsula) so named by Captain Matthew Flinders in 1802 because of the reflection of light and seaweed.

Strangely, ‘nullus’ no and ‘arbor’ tree only applied to this part of the 200,000 sq metre Nullarbor Plains, as we crossed into South Australia. Surprised by just how much green/growth there was-bush and low trees-over the 5 days driving.  No wild camels in evidence, did see a wombat cross the road safely, but not the roos, which have no road sense.

Not sure of the significance of the Vegemite promoting kangaroo, but the par 3 WA/SA Border Village hole was a goodie.

Don isn’t a serious contender for the record on this 18-hole par 73 course spanning 1,365 Km, but after buying three clubs for $15 he’s giving the Nullarbor Links his best shot. Forget manicured greens and landscaped fairways, the biggest challenge is keeping the flies from inside your sunglasses. 

Rather than camel train as in pioneering days, we’re now driving east (in air conditioned comfort) 1,986 Km through the Nullarbor towards Adelaide.  Travelling 300-400 Km daily, we’ll take 5-6 leisurely days via outback stops on the Eyre Highway, including 90 Mile Strait - 146 Km without a turn from Belladonia Station to Caiguna Roadhouse. 

Eye-catching flora and fauna on grain silos in wheat country near Esperance. Aussie design, landscape architecture in particular, is on a higher plane that reflects the creativity and resources of this big country.

Crickey, that was close.  This critter fell out of a tree right next to the camper, narrowly missing Don’s head. A bearded sandal-wearer from a nearby tent was shocked by his comment about not having a 22 handy, and earnestly pointed out that possums are protected here.

Wonderful viewing as huge waves pounded through the natural bridge of giant rocks near the neat little city of Albany. As we walked the superbly engineered paths and viewing platform we watched as two whales broached, thumped the water with their tails and spouted plumes of water on this wild Southern Ocean coast.

Cool vibes, beautiful food and wine to sample and people to watch at this Margaret River food festival. The table of 8 onstage had paid $325 a head for the pleasure of being up close and personal with Rick Stein, whose food demo was tacos and tomato salsa from his new Flavours of Mexico book. We felt quite smug after just devouring bbq scallops & chorizo with a citrus jus @ $8 a taster.

Not for the faint hearted - coming down the narrow inside spiral staircase was vertigo inducing. Cape Leeuwin was named after the Dutch ship Leeuwin (Lioness) that charted this coast in 1627. It’s a wildly beautiful point that overlooks the meeting of the Southern and Indian oceans. Interesting to see waves breaking in different directions over the treacherous granite and sandstone rocks that snared dozens of shipwrecks before the 1895 lighthouse was built.

Busselton has this awesome historic 1800 metre jetty - the longest wooden jetty in the Southern Hemisphere - with a tram to get to the marine observatory at the end. Amazing to see the colourful corals and sea life that have colonised the wharf 9 metres down to the seabed, viewable from underwater.

No, we didn't bring Gordon, our faithful garden gnome - he's back in Auckland house-sitting.  But around 5,000 of his mates and associates (of many nationalities) live here at Gnomesville, near Bunbury WA. A random gnome appeared on an adjacent roundabout in 2004 and locals placed others nearby so he wouldn't be lonely. Now the whole thing's got right out of hand and it's world famous in Australia.

Monument to a punishment system that is uncomfortably recent, World Heritage Site Fremantle Goal is Australia's largest, most intact historic prison. In 1851 transported convicts were brought to built the sandstone prison (from a quarry onsite and local jarra timber) which was only closed in 1991. Conditions would have been hellish, including the ghoulish execution chamber where 44 were hanged, the last in 1963.

Temporary public artwork in yellow vinyl film by Felice Varini at High Street, Fremantle. 'Freo' has a cool, hip vibe and the heritage buildings are complemented by beautifully landscaped public spaces. Ardent West Australians claim it should secede, based on being Australia's biggest and most prosperous state and not getting a big enough slice of State funding.

Stunning pedestrian and cyclist bridge at Elizabeth Wharf on the Swan River.  We're impressed with the urban design in Perth and Fremantle - quality materials and looks to be designed to a high standard, rather than a budget. Our harbour tour was a $1.90 return trip on the ferry to Perth South!

Didn't win on the Cup race itself, but a lovely day in cool weather with Auckland BFF Robin, and some place wins at the Melbourne Cup.

Cricket fan Don taking in England v Western Australia 2-day match at the hallowed ground of the WACA (on his birthday.)

Five life sized bronzes in the Perth CBD celebrating the local economy, from Dutch exploration and naming of the Swan River in 1697 to Milennium Man with his cellphone .

Thousands of these ice age limestone pillars have been eroded by water and wind, covered and uncovered by shifting sand in the Nambung National Park near the town of Cervantes. Wildflowers have just finished blooming in the surrounding scrub covered dunes - the light and colours were wonderful.